What’s better than stumbling upon a new obsession? A recent lunch invitation took me to Google to search for any nearby sandwich shops, and the algorithm did not fail me when it presented La Lima Sangucheria near the top of the list.
Opened just off South Boulevard in South End in March, La Lima is the latest venture from chef Bruno Macchiavello and interior designer Alvaro Carrillo, the team behind Viva Chicken and the esteemed Yunta Nikkei.
The Peruvian sanguchería has a modern, open, airy feel and a vibe that would fit nicely in South Beach — a vibe that Carrillo was purposeful in cultivating.
It’s a small place with just 15 tables between the two rooms and the patio, along with an elevated table hosting six bar stools. You’ll order from the counter when you first walk in, with four display boards offering the menu, then find your seat and await service if you’re dining in.
I’m a sucker for a good sandwich, having gone on a search for the city’s best for Queen City Nerve back in 2020, but I would place this new joint in another league.
Any good sandwich starts with the bread, and La Lima’s menu boasts its pillowy, artisanal, crispy “Crystal Bread,” aka pan de cristal, a traditional loaf from the Catalan region of Spain. If there’s a better bread in Charlotte to build a sandwich on, please point me in their direction — and fast. It appears the bread gets a quick turn on the grill, giving it a crunch you can’t help but crave.
I was greeted by the welcoming smile of Marco behind the counter on my first venture. I told him I wanted to try the chicharron sandwich, but that I was thinking of getting the Sakura, to which he gave an approving smile and said I had to try it, though he offered a few other suggestions for future visits. That’s upselling with an eye to the future.
My selection consisted of crispy pork belly, sweet potato, micro cilantro and sarza criolla, a common Peruvian side made of thinly sliced onions marinated in lime juice that’s similar to pico de gallo. It came with carretillero sauce made of aji amarillo pepper and a mustard base.
The tastes came in a slow burn, but the sandwich eventually seduced me with its tempting flavors. It was like a melody that built to a crescendo, the flavors getting better with each bite.
On my second visit, I stuck to my plan and ordered the Sakura, which comprises tuna tartar, crispy onion, daikon, micro cilantro and their spicy acevichado sauce — a mix of mayonnaise and leche de tigre, the curing juice in ceviche, that’s been called “Peru’s gift to sushi” but here acted as a gift from the sandwich gods.
The tuna tasted so fresh, I would have thought it was swimming just an hour before jumping out of the water onto the crystal bread. The crispy onion gave it a nice crunch, and the sauce took the flavor to another level.
The Sakura was one of the best things I have eaten in Charlotte this year, and possibly the best seafood in town. Sure, it’s just a sandwich, and the Mona Lisa is just a painting.
I had been falling for this place since I first crossed the threshold, so I decided it was a safe bet to celebrate my anniversary there on a recent Saturday night, less than two weeks after first discovering it.
I still had two sandwiches Marco suggested I try on my list, so this time I went with the Italo — beef pastrami, stracciatella, arugula, EVOO, and rocoto honey, which consists of a spicy pepper sauce mixed with honey that you can pour on top or dip your sandwich in.
I took the plunge and dipped, creating a trifecta of sweet, spicy and salty in each bite. Once again, the sauce elevated the sandwich and brought things up a couple of notches.
According to Carrillo, Peruvians don’t just eat sandwiches like they’re only there for sustenance, they make it their own with sauces — dip, drizzle or pour them on for an extra kick. There is no wrong way; the sauces are meant to keep the party going in your mouth and La Lima has this down to a science … or an art. Pick a study.
Wanting to try a side, I asked for a suggestion between the rustic potatoes and the crispy yuca; the latter came strongly recommended. It was okay, but the starchy, root vegetable wouldn’t be missed if I had never ordered it.
My wife opted for the Sensei bowl, which consisted of honey tamari chicken, roasted veggies, avocado, a hard-boiled egg and cilantro lime rice as the main components. As a normally picky eater, “she liked it, she liked it,” stealing from a famous commercial from days gone by about a picky eater named Mikey, for those of a certain age.
I enjoyed my few bites, but the sandwiches had a hold on me. I longed for the satisfying crunch of that bread.
Once you have one, you’ll be crawling the walls to come back for another. If you’re not looking to save calories, a sandwich is the way to go.
Since we were toasting our anniversary, I opted for the pina brava, a tequila drink that includes pineapple juice and lime juice along with jalapeno syrup and ancho liqueur. It had the nice balance of spicy and tequila flavor I was hoping for when I ordered it.
We splurged for dessert, ordering two instead of our usual share plan. A display case to the left of the register exhibits a slew of delectable temptations that promise to have you loosening your belt. If you’re swearing off sugar, it’s best not to even glance in that direction.
All of La Lima’s desserts are made in-house in small batches by the pastry chefs.
I opted for the torta de chocolate, because when chocolate is on the menu, it usually ends up in my mouth. I prayed the piece would come out more fudgy than cake-like, and my prayers were answered. It was worth the calories.
My wife ordered the key lime pie and I was transported back to Key West, where I had probably the freshest and tastiest key lime pie I can remember. La Lima’s was sublime.
It was so good and tart, I stole a few more bites than I planned. Chocolate addict or not, the key lime pie will be my selection next time.
On my most recent visit with a friend less a few days later, I went with the Tusan sandwich, with marinated grilled steak, red onion, tomato, micro cilantro and that trusty carretillero sauce.
I won’t bore you with how much I enjoyed it, but I can say that I did have vindication this time, as the friend who joined me ordered the same sandwich and agreed, “This place is great!”
He also ordered the rustic potato side that I was talked out of on my anniversary and this one hit home. I’m glad he offered a bite.
What can I say about this place that I haven’t already said? I can’t stop thinking about it. It feels like a new relationship, one where you can’t wait to see that person again. Every date just keeps getting better until … you put a ring on it. No other shoe to drop. No reason to leave.
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To make things better, the service at La Lima is always superb and they even validate parking in a garage right down the street, which does add legitimate value in the heart of South End.
If this isn’t the best sandwich spot in Charlotte, I don’t know what is. It also might be one of the best restaurants in town, period. Turns out what we’ve really needed all along has been not any old sandwich shop but a sanguchería.
I’m in love.
